Forestry Service – Part 12

In this part:

Elsie and Sydney Phipps — Ranolf Street

Mrs. Elsie Phipps, now 88 years, has lived at 185 Ranolf St. since 1930. Mr. Sydney Phipps, 1928, married Elsie, living first in Toko St. for 2yrs. where Elsie’s mother Mrs. Mutton lived, having come from Te Puke. Sydney was from Christchurch. In 1924, while working for Herd & Shepherd Timber Merchants in Amohau St. he met Elsie, starting her nursing training. When she completed this, they were married. Their five children, Nola Taylor, Cath Angus, Sydney, Ronald, Julie Hansen, all live in Rotorua still but Syd farming at Waikite Valley while Ron is a surveyor in the business Phipps and Hawley.

Mrs. Phipps, although having such a supportive family nearby, is most independent and capable of managing most things for herself. She enjoys talking about early Rotorua days, having a good sense of humour. Her home is the second one down from the Devon–Ranolf Sts. corner shops. There were no shops when they first lived up there in the country. Recently, during a cold snap in the weather, she commented to her friend in the shop, “I am going home to put my feet in the oven and to read a book.” It amused her to see the astounded look of other nearby customers! Yes, her old wood range still functions perfectly, keeping her kitchen the cosy focal point of her home, even now, 1993!

Her three daughters recently sat comfortably near this wood range swapping memories of Ranolf St. days, mainly Depression days. No car, no fridge, no T.V., no electricity for lighting, no radio, no sewerage system so W.C.. Nola remembers the late night commotion in the great clumps of bamboo at the back with all the flutterings and chirpings of hundreds of sparrows disturbed by the nightman’s lantern. Cath remembers their escapades as they cut across the golf course going to the Whaka school especially in wet weather, sliding and skating on lovely slopes! Frosty mornings meant warming shoes in the oven. How glad Julie was the time the leather soles of her horrible passed-down shoes over heated and curled right up! Julie confides how her worst nightmare keeps reoccurring. A huge bull with horrible horns and rolling eyes is charging down on her. In terror she flees inside. There is nowhere to hide till she spies the deep dark empty coal bucket and leaps in. Now they all recalled those great mobs of huge cattle which they thought of as bulls, which came up Summner St., past their house to Devon St., then Old Taupo Rd.

1928, after 1924–1927 training at Rotorua Hospital, Elsie qualified for nursing, then married Syd Phipps. Her first four babies were born at home with help from mid-wife Nurse Naumann, but Julie later, was born at Nurse Naumann’s private maturnity home further down Ranolf Street. Elsie Phipps’s nursing experience was most helpful in the neighbourhood especially at times of birth & death.

Nola remembers when young, her mother walking them as toddlers, down to the lake front near Bath House for a lovely picnic, the food carried in a pram. Little Ron promptly fell into duckweed and dirty water, so they were packed off home again – no picnic!

Sydney Phipps — World War I, Cycling and Horses

Sydney Phipps, in World War I, served overseas in the army. Born in Christchurch, he ran away when 9 years old, after 2 years of harsh treatment from his step-mother. A few years later his brother Laurie at 11 years also ran away, later to become the mechanic of the famous aviator Kingsford Smith in Australia. Syd never met his brother again but did meet Kingsford Smith in 1933 when he visited Rotorua, landing at Te Ngae. All Syd’s family joined in this momentous occasion, having borrowed the car from the tourist driver Mr. Clinkard (later Mayor). In weekends, Syd at times did relieving driving for ‘Round the Lake’ tours. It was through this that he became such friends with Bert Oakes and also Bert Gleeson so renowned as a tourist driver. Both once lived in Glenholme area.

Coming to Rotorua in the early 1920s, he entered enthusiastically into community activities. He did secretarial work for the Fire Brigade Service. When called to a fire he would grab his gear, warn his children to keep away from the fire, hop on his bike and away. Nola, his eldest, was severely admonished for getting near Charlie’s Kusabs beautiful Utahina riverside home as it burnt. After 33 years of service, Syd was made a Life Member.

He was secretary and treasurer of the Druids Lodge group for about 14 years, on the Whaka Sch. Committee, and secretary of St. Chads Devon Street Church. 1928, he became the first secretary for the Athletic Club newly formed mainly for cycling until 1932. He was a keen cyclist, having won a pre-war cup for the Timaru to Christchurch race.

As a lad in Christchurch in pre-war years, he became interested in horse riding and helping at stables. This led to him becoming a jockey until he became too heavy. He then became a race horse trainer, for a living.

In Rotorua, just for pleasure, he continued to help train race horses for two people who had stables near Old Taupo Rd. and Devon St. west. Dr. Hetherington kept a small stable on land west side of Otonga Rd., Devon St. to Springfield Rd.. Mr. Khan had big stables holding about five race horses but no house – Ngongotaha people. The stables were about Huia St. on the rise, above the Utahina River.

Ron and Syd Phipps — Upper Ranolf Street in the 1930s–40s

1930s–40s, Ron & Syd Phipps, upper Ranolf St., remember exciting days up there almost in the country. There was a big vacant area behind their home from Devon St. belonging to S. L. Russell (builder) House is still there, second from Ashley St. corner. Mrs. Russell’s daughter, Mrs. Buckthought lived next door on the corner – they owned the property Springfield – Utahina R. farm. Phipps kept their house cow on Russells. There were no shops on Devon St. corner then. The Young family next to them had the rest of the land to High St. except for Lilley’s section. Youngs kept a beautiful orchard back as far as Ashley St.

Nola Phipps did not mind the task of milking the cow when a nice Young boy was looking over the fence.

There was great excitement for the boys with a great herd of cattle, drovers cracking whips, dogs barking and racing about, as they passed by.

Ron and Syd’s greatest thrill 1944–45, was when, up from the Railway Station with roaring diesel motors, came BREN GUN CARRIERS! American marines to be camped just across Devon St. in the Municipal Camp!

1920s–1930s. The Young family, upper Ranolf St., neighbouring Phipps. Advertisement on the page: Surveyors — Phipps Hawley Ltd, Ron Phipps – Peter Hawley. Subdivisions, Boundary Definition, Resource Management Applications, Land and Engineering Surveys. 20 Haupapa Street, PO Box 190, Rotorua. Ph: 07-347 6995, Fax: 07-347 6994.

They were in war training before going on into the Pacific war zone. Sometimes they said to Ron & Syd, “Come on kids, come and have a ride!!!” In freezing cold wintery weather, the two guards at the gate had a brazier burning. A number of these troops suffered illness or pneumonia.

Training in uniform, was soon sought by Ron and Syd. They joined a Boys Brigade under Noel Pachoud, who did a great job with the lads, always keen to learn. They later stayed in it, and became leaders themselves.

They also had great fun and exercise riding Khan’s horses all round the country-side, exploring the bush and streams and learning to catch trout by tickling!

After High School, they chose their careers, Syd going farming and is now at Waikiti Valley near Rotorua. Ron is a surveyor, the business Phipps and Hawley. Ron’s first work was surveying the same Municipal camp for housing subdivision in 1952. His second job was surveying H. P. Ford’s farm across the Utahina on Malfroy Rd. for State Housing, in the mid-1950s.

Cath Phipps married Bruce Angus, Cath now at Mokoia Drive. Cath trained as a kindergarten teacher and taught in Rotorua’s first free kindergarten organised by Helen Downer, and held in the Malfroy Rd. Baptist Hall, 1951. A creative and caring person, she enjoyed her several kindergarten schools. Cath says that Mrs. Lauri Andrews really ran the earliest Rotorua kindergarten. The Andrews owned the land at Old Taupo Rd. cnr. Malfroy Rd. to Konini St., having a raspberry farm with house at the end of Rutland St. It is known that in Rutland St. on the left by Old Taupo Rd. was a nice maternity home where Hazel, the daughter of Harry & Rene Ford of Malfroy Rd. West was born in 1914. Backing Andrews farm was another orchard and produce farm of Whitworths, entrance off Malfroy Rd..

1964, Cath and Bruce Angus moved from Eruera St. to Owhata, buying an old country home at the top of Brent’s Rd., now Walnut Place, and still there. Cath thought it about 100 years old now, Rotorua’s oldest house. The man they bought it from, said it had belonged to Buckthoughts. A tall straight cactus grew through a hole in the porch roof – now cut.

Khan’s Stables and the Hetherington Block

Khan’s stables on their stud farm off Devon St. West behind St. Andrews Church. Mr. Sydney Phipps and his family, especially Syd, Ron and Julie, often enjoyed exercising these fine horses over nearby country-side.

1940s–1950s, Khan’s Stables off Devon St. West, now Huia St. Land was Moss Boord’s. Syd Phipps exercises Khan’s horses for pleasure. Photos by Kay Taylor.

Julie remembers the tack room above one of the stables where oats were stored and a big bin of molasses, and seeing these two mixed up with eggs for special horse feeding. Khans had several paddocks as well down the flats and to the side, once Moss Boord’s property, still with some old sheds on it. When Nola Phipps husband-to-be, Kay Taylor, in 1948 tried to buy some of this property, it was refused because the Govt. wanted it reserved for State Housing.

They rode up Sloane’s Hill above the Hemo Gorge (bought 1920 from the solicitor D. Davy) where at that time there were no houses but now the Tihi-Otonga subdivision. They rode up Otonga dirt road past Springfield Rd. over Willmott’s on the left near the top, Thomas Jackson’s on the right and the bordering Tihi St. land above the Utahina R. which also bordered the Ngati Whakaue Tihi-Otonga Estate. Sometimes they were scared by Old Man Dan, thought to be suffering from shell-shock in W.W.I, who would come riding along on his horse which had a long rope wound round its neck, and he would be shouting and raving and throwing his arms about. He allowed no-one near his hovel but was harmless, his Tihi St. land all scrub covered which secluded him.

As well as whole days spent riding and picnicking over Tihi-Otonga, they rode up Pukehangi Rd., then over the back of Hunt’s farm into the bush to the source of the Utahina where the crystal clear waters, like Fairy Springs, bubble to the surface, soon reaching the catchment area for pumping water up to the reservoir on Hunt’s farm.

Figure Photo by Kay Taylor – the Hetherington block flats above the Utahina River, roof of the Hetherington house seen behind three houses.

Dr. Hetherington’s stables by the house, for about two horses, still stand. The Phipps family also enjoyed exercising these horses at times. Hetherington Block was from Devon St.–Otonga Rd. cnr. to Springfield Rd. up on the rise above the flats now Springfield Golf Course. The drive up to the house is now off foot of Jackson St.. The flats below on left by Utahina R. were Buckthoughts, later Smallbones. No Springfield shops by Hopkins house (1st. left in photo) existed then, in late 1940s.

Kay Taylor — and Crown-Leased Land Around Hetherington and Tihi-Otonga

Kay Taylor married Nola Phipps, assistant dental nurse for Heck Steele. Kay, during W.W.2 was a radio operator for the airforce in the Pacific. After the war he worked for the Tourist Dept. planning power lines for the newly developing farming districts and getting to know surveyors like Ivor Gainsford & Edgar Butt.

1947, Kay wanted to buy an area of Moss Boord’s land in St. Andrews area, but the Govt. refused him as they planned it for State Houses. Further down Hillcrest was Jervis property, farmed by their son Athol who married Peggy Woolliams.

Kay bought a double section now 43 Springfield Rd., then called Hora Hora bridle track, with no formation, all bumps and hollows. He had an orchard, big garden, kept hens, and grazed a cow on Bert Howlett’s property of a few acres on the Devon St. corner of Hetherington Blk. Bert was a stock buyer.

Hand-drawn map, “Crown leased land up to 1920s”, showing landholders and features along Old Taupo Rd., Devon St., Ranolf St., Sophia St., High St., Springfield Rd. and the Hetherington Block: H. MacDonald, Dr. Bertram’s (Glenholme), M. Jolly, Davidson, Jane Boord (20 acres), S. L. Russell, Duncan (30 acres), Steele, Boyes, D. Edwards, H. Kirk’s property, Webster (ran dairy herd), Goodwin, Heaton, Harris, Miller, Mrs Williamson, Sloane’s, Golf Course, the Hetherington Block, Moss Boord’s acres, Buckthought’s flats, Jackson’s Rd., Willmott’s, Hadley’s (later Wychwood Nurseries), Goudie’s Nursery (later Kiwi St., first belonged to Emeny), the Municipal (later Thermal) Camp, Waiariki Polytechnic, and Tihi-Otonga (Ngati Whakaue tribal lands, incorporated), noting D. Davy and T. Sloane as later owners of the Tihi-Otonga subdivision.

Otonga Rd. was only roughly formed between it and Old Taupo Rd., the land opposite Taylor’s on the south, belonged to a Mr. Hunt (no relation to Pukehangi Rd. one). Kay regrets not buying this as Mr. Wells found it a good investment when sub-divided, with Moncur Ave. included. It bordered Goudie’s (Emeny 1st.) Nurseries where Kiwi Block is, then came Willmott’s land up to Tihi-Otonga. Thomas Jackson was opposite this on Otonga Rd. down to Springfield corner and back to Tihi St. at Old Dan Brosnan’s. (Webster farmed Kirk’s land.)

Henry Kirk owned the V of land up from St. Andrews Corner–Springfield. 1880, he left T. J. Bennet’s Ohinemutu Store, as sole employee. 1890s, Kirk’s farm at Te Ngae, the old Mission property, was one of the few real farms in Rotorua, supplying the township. He was a butcher. (The other real farms were – James Stanley and John Dalbeth leased Wlm. Kelly’s Old Taupo Rd.–Malfroy Rd. to Utahina Rv. for dairy produce. Karl Bros. Ngongotaha, supplied dairy produce, meat, fruit and vegetables.)

Mort Jolly’s land, bordered MacDonald’s – then Dr. Bertram’s land at least by 1924 and 1928, managed Troutbeck’s Galatea Station after managing Troutbeck’s Pomare Block on Malfroy Rd. West.

The Buckthought and Russell Families of Ranolf–Devon–Ashley Streets

1920s, Buckthoughts and Russells lived cnr. Ranolf–Devon–Ashley Sts..

Shellah Russell, builder, owned all that block down to High Street. He built his home on the west cnr. of Ashley St., dying there at 31 years, leaving his wife Mary, and daughter Eugenia now 96 years in Wellington with her daughter Mary – (Mrs. Findlay). They sent this information. Eugenia Russell married Fred Buckthought, son of Ernest, Mary born 1935. Mary’s brother was Russell Buckthought.

1920s, Ernest Buckthought, farmer off Springfield Rd. on Utahina Rv. flats, now Springfield Golf Course. In 1935 when Mary was born, Ernest’s son Fred was still farming but had built his home on the cnr. opposite Russell’s, Ashley St. east–Devon St. In later years, grandmother Russell, took the house next to this (still here).

Fred Buckthought, about 1943, moved to town for his children’s schooling, living where St. Luke’s is now on cnr. of Amohia Street. He kept the books for several firms including R. M. Motors and Keane’s Auctioneers. During W.W.2 he had a milkbar and had many stories about the Americans who were based at Arawa Park and spent many off-duty hours in the milkbar. Also the Lyric Theatre was lecture hall for our airforce lads who at tea breaks poured in the back door from the rear of the Lyric which was directly behind the milkbar, with its front doors shut on such occasions.

Sept. 1945, with W.W.2 over, Fred Buckthought moved to Wellington, selling to Mr. Archibald, a very enterprising businessman in Tutanekai St. who also bought Les Woolliams’s group of shops between Eruera & Amohau Sts. as well as Hotel Australia on the corner opposite the railway station. These two families were great friends, and Lillian Archibald now, Mrs. Bruce Turner of Otonga Rd., still visits Mrs Mary (Buckthought) Findlay in Wellington and helped collect this information from both Mary and her 96 year old mother Eugenie Buckthought. Note from ‘Family Tree’.

John Gibson Buckthought, 1856–1929, brother of Ernest (Mary’s grandfather). ‘1906, in Rotorua, he was proprietor of the “Langham Hotel”, Hinemoa St. which he had for 7 yrs. 1914, he returned to farming, owning a farm on Gibb Rd. opp. the airport (Te Ngae) and farmed until he drowned 7-7-1929.’ (Could perhaps Gibbs Rd. be their families’ name for where Gibson lived??) In 1964 Bruce Angus, husband of Cath Phipps, bought the old house at top of Brent’s Rd., now in Walnut Place, reputed to be about 100 Yrs. old. It was sold by a man who said it belonged to Buckthoughts. Till now it was renowned for the great cactus that grew through a hole in the porch roof. Recently the present owner, Glenys Holmes & family had it cut down as prowlers were cutting pieces off for its alleged aphrodisiac powers. Angus’s added the high room at the top.

Brian Buckthought, relation and present-day butcher in Rotorua says the Buckthoughts originally came to N.Z. 17-1-1852, settling in Taranaki, becoming farmers. His father left there as a young man, coming to Te Ngae, Rotorua for several years before settling in Waihi. About 1909 he began work with Goodson’s carrying service, with horse and cart. His first job was bringing great poles from Tauranga to Rotorua.,

Letter from Miss Agnes Boord — Old Taupo Road Pioneering Farms

Letter from Miss Agnes Boord, now 85 yrs., from early pioneering farming family of Old Taupo Rd. opposite Glenholme land of Dr. Bertram. Miss Boord was the first Infant Mistress, 1948, of Glenholme School. 24-4-1993.

Dear Mrs. Allen, I received your letter recently and would be pleased to help you with your research.

My father, Francis Moss Boord owned 40 acres (about 90 Hect.) at the junction of Old Taupo Rd. and Devon St. and Sherrif’s farm ran on the same side of Old Taupo towards Malfroy Rd. down to the Utahina River.

Hand-drawn map, “Crown land, leased farms up to 1920s”, showing Pererika Street, Ann St., Malfroy Rd., Old Taupo Rd. and Ranolf St. holdings including Edwin Robertson, Johnson (land agent), S. Tew, Armer, W. Kelly (1890), D. Sherriff, W. Wallace (40 acres west and 40 acres east, now Clinkard Ave.), J. C. Malfroy, I. H. Hill, L. Lewis, Sloane’s, Bates, Woolliams, H. MacDonald (before 1920), Dr. H. Bertram (1924, called house and property ‘Glenholme’), the Glenholme Reserve and Glenholme Primary School (1948), Rimu St., Mort Jolly and Davidson, and High St. with Davidson St., Arthur St. and Ashley St.

My Aunt Jane Boord owned 20 acres from Old Taupo Rd. corner along Devon St. diagonally opposite my father’s property. She had a cottage and stable building behind it. (A sketch provided shows this down a drive now called Arthur St. and on corner of High St.) The two paddocks on Old Taupo Rd. side was where my father sowed swedes. Mr. McDonald (a Scot) and his family had 40 acres adjoining her property, later Dr. Bertram bought it.

Mr. Tom Kirk I believe owned land opposite my father on the triangle shaped land placed between Old Taupo Rd. and Otonga Rd..

Mr. Sam Steele owned 30 acres along Devon St. from the top of Ranolf St. (Duncan, eldest son). This extended to Old Taupo Rd. and Sophia St. later becoming the Municipal Camp Ground. The horses for the transport were kept between the land on Ranolf and Fenton Sts.. In heavy downpours, they came up and stood on the higher ground at the top of Robertson St..

The Wallaces had a white house on Ranolf St. not far from where Wallace Cres. now stands.

Leonie Webster and family at one time lived between where Glenholme is now, and Devon St. corner.

Remember me to Don and Joan Civil. I well remember Mr. Bassett who was my headmaster at Glenholme School in the early days, and Don there also.

Good luck, yours sincerely, Agnes Boord.

Note: Ray Boord, brother to the above Agnes and son of F. Moss Boord, was M.P. 1954–1960, Q.S.M., then a farmer before becoming Mayor of Rotorua, 1971–1977. J.R.

Webster family mentioned above (1924-1929) lived in their big country home between what is now Ashley and Arthur Sts., No. 26 High St., still there. He was a dairy farmer of this area, including the V of Old Taupo Rd, Otonga Rd. and Springfield Rd.. This V was bought by a syndicate from Nelson–Wellington for subdivision, a Mr. Goodwin prominent in selling this St. Andrews Hill Estate. Hence the name of Goodwin Ave. Davidsons next owned M. Jolly’s land in the Devon St. area behind Bertram’s including Jane Boord’s, their house in High St. facing down Arthur St.. Their son Arthur died in his 20s. Davidson St. is nearby and short.

The Goodwin Bros. Estate — Old Taupo Road, Springfield Road and Otonga Road

1930s, The Goodwin Bros. Estate, a V — Old Taupo Rd., Springfield Rd., and Otonga Rd..

1931, Mr. Goodwin, architect in Rotorua (brother was in Wellington) built the first home there along Old Taupo Rd. for himself, now No. 401. The only other house along there for years, next door, belonged to the Williamsons, another big section. 1943, Mr. Goodwin sold his home to Ken Heaton, then over next few years he gradually sold sections down to Devon St. corner, with a clause that homes be of a certain value, except the bottom corner to Mr. Avery.

1940s–50s, big sections of about 3 hect. were sold to those named. The top 6 sections from Springfield Rd. backed onto a Reserve, part later became St. Andrews Private Hospital, now Southern Cross Health C. Cantabria Rest Home has taken over those opposite Sophia Street.

Springfield Road

1. Ken Welch m. Gwen Griffiths. An accountant. Sold to Dr. Tyler.
2. Mrs. Williamson, capable owner of Private Boarding House in town, used as soldiers W.W.I convalescent home, called ‘Denbies’. Her daughter Gwen, & Robbie Miller built on Mrs. Williamson’s land, up long driveway.
3. Mr. Goodwin, owner, 1931, 1st. home in this area. 1943, Ken Heaton bought Goodwin’s home but Ian McKenzie, Vet. Surgeon recently bought it.
4. Alan Carruthers, an early buyer of Fortune & Carruthers Garage.
5. Gilltraps, what is now No. 397. Snow & Bonny Tonkins, P.O. work, 1950s, bought & subdivided it.
6. Doug Conn, panel beater, sold Bill Young, later owned the ‘Denbies’ Boarding House.
7. Mrs. Dodds, son-district farm. Fred & Cath Reid next – Reid & Mills Service Station – town.
Now Cantabria Rest Home Block.

8. Mr. & Mrs. G. Garland, Stock Agent for Dalgetty & Co.

9. Mr. Avery – painter etc. Sold to Barnetts’ Service Station.

St. Andrews Cnr. — Devon St. East / Devon St. West.